After filming color grading and camera settings.
- Thread starter RideOnTwo
- Start date
Hippo-Drones
Pleb
and the Media Mod is £80
Moto Mengy
Motovlogger from PA, USA
Okay I figured out what is causing my video to be over exposed, it's the shutter speed. I keep reading the rule to follow is set shutter speed to twice the framerate. I was shooting at 60 fps so I set the shutter to 1/120. I just now played with 1/240 and it looks much better. No idea why I need 4X the fps or better to get a decent exposure but it seems I do on my Hero 8.
Gonna play around with various setting combos today to see if I can find anything I prefer over straight GoPro auto settings.
Gonna play around with various setting combos today to see if I can find anything I prefer over straight GoPro auto settings.
WEB
L Plate Member
Hold the shutter open for longer and more light hits the sensor. Too much light hits the sensor, you get overexposure. The 180 degree rule is a standard because boffins decreed that the amount of motion blur you get with a 180 degree shutter angle mimics the way human eye experiences motion blur in real life.
180 degrees isn't the only rule though, if you're shooting at 24fps you'll want a narrower angle to compensate for 3:2 pulldown which is what screens running at 60Hz do to display 24 frames etc
As varying the shutter speed varies how the footage looks, it's locked off. For motovlogging it really probably doesn't matter though.
180 degrees isn't the only rule though, if you're shooting at 24fps you'll want a narrower angle to compensate for 3:2 pulldown which is what screens running at 60Hz do to display 24 frames etc
As varying the shutter speed varies how the footage looks, it's locked off. For motovlogging it really probably doesn't matter though.
Last edited:
RideOnTwo
Smart Ass
Your shutter speed is causing the white out. Without ND filters you need to adjust the shutter speed and white balance to compensate for each other. If you are going to run the proper shutter, you need to change the white balance till it darkens the picture. The ISO, shutter speed and white balance all work together for this purpose.
This is something you have to test and play with till you learn your camera. I did a test of different settings and ND filters on my Hero 4 and Hero 7 over the winter and will post the results when I get a little free time.
Moto Mengy
Motovlogger from PA, USA
After all of my ProTune experiments with editing filters I've come to two conclusions:
1. My PC isn't powerful enough to edit footage with lots of video filters and such.
2. The Hero 8 on full auto does a great job on it's own and I'm happy with it.
While I might be able to get a very teeny slightly better picture quality out of a carefully tuned Hero 8 with a lot of editing work, it just doesn't seem worth the effort to me. Maybe with older GoPro's it's a larger difference, but with my Hero 8 it honestly seems to do a great job on full auto.
Once I build a better PC towards the end of this year, and once I have more filming & editing experience, I may revisit this. For now I'm staying full auto as it just seems more efficient to me with nearly identical results.
1. My PC isn't powerful enough to edit footage with lots of video filters and such.
2. The Hero 8 on full auto does a great job on it's own and I'm happy with it.
While I might be able to get a very teeny slightly better picture quality out of a carefully tuned Hero 8 with a lot of editing work, it just doesn't seem worth the effort to me. Maybe with older GoPro's it's a larger difference, but with my Hero 8 it honestly seems to do a great job on full auto.
Once I build a better PC towards the end of this year, and once I have more filming & editing experience, I may revisit this. For now I'm staying full auto as it just seems more efficient to me with nearly identical results.
humes
Colorado Motovlogger
I love this topic as currently fiddling with settings too.
I bought some ND filters (ND2, ND4, ND8, ND16) that go on my Ulanzi case (round not square) and have played with white balance, ISO, etc. Also watched some YouTube on what those settings mean. For me I'm willing to go through the learning curve just to understand the photography / videography basics a bit better. Worst case, I decide after learning that it's not worth adjusting most of the time and leave on auto, but have the knowledge to adjust if ever needed.
I found this chart handy:
I bought some ND filters (ND2, ND4, ND8, ND16) that go on my Ulanzi case (round not square) and have played with white balance, ISO, etc. Also watched some YouTube on what those settings mean. For me I'm willing to go through the learning curve just to understand the photography / videography basics a bit better. Worst case, I decide after learning that it's not worth adjusting most of the time and leave on auto, but have the knowledge to adjust if ever needed.
I found this chart handy:
