Yamaha R6 Sparkplug Change

YoutubIan

Wannabie Member
Just a word of warning to anyone wanting to change the spark plugs.

I have a 2004 Yamaha R6 with 53 000km's on now.

It is a horrible job!!!
I changed mine yesterday, I started off by myself, removed the tank, airfilter etc, got the plugs out installed the new ones, but to be honest, I had to call my wife into the garage and ask her to help when putting everything back together, it is possible to do it by yourself (1 person) but Id strongly recommend you get an extra hand in to assist. I am quite hands on and do most things myself, but this one got to me, maybe the older you get, the more you realize, you getting to old for struggle and rather get some help in :D

I started making a "HOW TO" but it got so loooong, I decided to switch my camera off and stop taking photos.
The gaps and spaces to work in are so small and tight, it was really not a nice job.

HOWEVER! I do recommend you check your plugs if they are due for a change or were "supposedly" changed a service or more back.
Mine were "so called changed" 5 000km's back, I HIGHLY doubt it, the white of the pugs were yellow, my idling was rough, throttle response not that great, AND THE WRONG PLUGS WERE IN!!!

This is one main reason I like to service my bikes myself, then you know things are done, replaced, cleaned or inspected.
I suspect, dealers or outside mechanics say they change them, but due to it being such a crappy job, they dont do it but still charge you for it.

I had a ticking/pinging noise before I changed my plugs and the idling was quite rough.

Since the new plugs and cleaned air filter (oil I did 1000km's back) my idling is smooth, throttle response GREAT, ticking noise gone and overall performance fantastic and smooth!

I could not get hold of the NGK CR10EK, but got the NGK CR9EK instead.

Good luck to anyone tackling this, and remember, it is possible to DIY it and its not complicated, its just a crappy job as the spaces and gaps to work in are so small.
If you do have a torque wrench, I torqued plugs to 13NM (found on a online manual).

Procedure:
Remove the tank (you can just pivot it up, but I recommend taking the whole tank off, more space then)
Remove the top side panels (Small ones, not the fairings)
Remove the air filter and induction pipes
Remove the plastic cover, covering the head
Remove the coils (mark them if you are unsure, I made a 1,2,3,4 on top of each just to be safe)
Remove your old spark plugs

Install your new plugs (Torque 13NM)
Now do rest in reverse and put it all back together.
 
Just a word of warning to anyone wanting to change the spark plugs.

I have a 2004 Yamaha R6 with 53 000km's on now.

It is a horrible job!!!
I changed mine yesterday, I started off by myself, removed the tank, airfilter etc, got the plugs out installed the new ones, but to be honest, I had to call my wife into the garage and ask her to help when putting everything back together, it is possible to do it by yourself (1 person) but Id strongly recommend you get an extra hand in to assist. I am quite hands on and do most things myself, but this one got to me, maybe the older you get, the more you realize, you getting to old for struggle and rather get some help in :D

I started making a "HOW TO" but it got so loooong, I decided to switch my camera off and stop taking photos.
The gaps and spaces to work in are so small and tight, it was really not a nice job.

HOWEVER! I do recommend you check your plugs if they are due for a change or were "supposedly" changed a service or more back.
Mine were "so called changed" 5 000km's back, I HIGHLY doubt it, the white of the pugs were yellow, my idling was rough, throttle response not that great, AND THE WRONG PLUGS WERE IN!!!

This is one main reason I like to service my bikes myself, then you know things are done, replaced, cleaned or inspected.
I suspect, dealers or outside mechanics say they change them, but due to it being such a crappy job, they dont do it but still charge you for it.

I had a ticking/pinging noise before I changed my plugs and the idling was quite rough.

Since the new plugs and cleaned air filter (oil I did 1000km's back) my idling is smooth, throttle response GREAT, ticking noise gone and overall performance fantastic and smooth!

I could not get hold of the NGK CR10EK, but got the NGK CR9EK instead.

Good luck to anyone tackling this, and remember, it is possible to DIY it and its not complicated, its just a crappy job as the spaces and gaps to work in are so small.
If you do have a torque wrench, I torqued plugs to 13NM (found on a online manual).

Procedure:
Remove the tank (you can just pivot it up, but I recommend taking the whole tank off, more space then)
Remove the top side panels (Small ones, not the fairings)
Remove the air filter and induction pipes
Remove the plastic cover, covering the head
Remove the coils (mark them if you are unsure, I made a 1,2,3,4 on top of each just to be safe)
Remove your old spark plugs

Install your new plugs (Torque 13NM)
Now do rest in reverse and put it all back together.

I've heard that this is a tough job. I'll also be attempting this on my R6 in the near future. A good place for all these R6 DIY things it the R6Forum. They've got a DIY for everything!

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-how-tos/

I've also read on there that the spark plugs that you put in your bike now, work a little better than the 10EK and last a bit longer ;)
 
Wanna know whats worse than a plug change on an R6? Having an older one with carbs and havng to pull the carbs out and clean them! BLEH! I wish that on no one!
 
Wanna know whats worse than a plug change on an R6? Having an older one with carbs and havng to pull the carbs out and clean them! BLEH! I wish that on no one!
how often are you supposed to clean yoru carb? Not an R6 rider but I got dem carbs
 
how often are you supposed to clean yoru carb? Not an R6 rider but I got dem carbs

If you ride the bike regularly and run an occasional bottle of fuel injector cleaner, you should never have to clean the carbs. Regular use is the friend of all systems in a motorcycle or car. Disuse is a killer.

The most common reason to clean carbs is leaving gas in them over the winter. If you drain the carbs prior to storage and put some fuel stabilizer in the tank, this should be an issue.
 
If you ride the bike regularly and run an occasional bottle of fuel injector cleaner, you should never have to clean the carbs. Regular use is the friend of all systems in a motorcycle or car. Disuse is a killer.

The most common reason to clean carbs is leaving gas in them over the winter. If you drain the carbs prior to storage and put some fuel stabilizer in the tank, this should be an issue.
Crap winter is coming.... gotta figure out how to do all that! Thanks
 
Crap winter is coming.... gotta figure out how to do all that! Thanks

Bah, that was supposed to read "should not be an issue."

What bike do you ride? If I'm familiar with it or can find a snippet out of a service manual, I'll give you the info on where to find the drain plugs. Of course, you could always shut off the fuel valve and run the bike till the float bowls empty, it will then shut off out of fuel starvation.

As far as adding a fuel stabilizer, Stabil is pretty good. A buddy of mine uses it in his Honda Elite every winter and it's been fine for him. Just dump the recommended amount in the fuel tank, slosh it around by rocking the bike back and forth a bit (with the filler cap closed and the bike off), and you're done.
 
Bah, that was supposed to read "should not be an issue."

What bike do you ride? If I'm familiar with it or can find a snippet out of a service manual, I'll give you the info on where to find the drain plugs. Of course, you could always shut off the fuel valve and run the bike till the float bowls empty, it will then shut off out of fuel starvation.

As far as adding a fuel stabilizer, Stabil is pretty good. A buddy of mine uses it in his Honda Elite every winter and it's been fine for him. Just dump the recommended amount in the fuel tank, slosh it around by rocking the bike back and forth a bit (with the filler cap closed and the bike off), and you're done.
Ay thanks for the headsup. I'll talk to my mechanic guy and see what needs to be done man. Thanks a bunch!
What they also suggest here is to block any big openings (ie exhaust for me). Else some animals/bugs can make it into a pretty good nest hhahaa
 
Ay thanks for the headsup. I'll talk to my mechanic guy and see what needs to be done man. Thanks a bunch!
What they also suggest here is to block any big openings (ie exhaust for me). Else some animals/bugs can make it into a pretty good nest hhahaa

Don't forget the intake. Mice love airboxes.
 

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