Just a word of warning to anyone wanting to change the spark plugs.
I have a 2004 Yamaha R6 with 53 000km's on now.
It is a horrible job!!!
I changed mine yesterday, I started off by myself, removed the tank, airfilter etc, got the plugs out installed the new ones, but to be honest, I had to call my wife into the garage and ask her to help when putting everything back together, it is possible to do it by yourself (1 person) but Id strongly recommend you get an extra hand in to assist. I am quite hands on and do most things myself, but this one got to me, maybe the older you get, the more you realize, you getting to old for struggle and rather get some help in
I started making a "HOW TO" but it got so loooong, I decided to switch my camera off and stop taking photos.
The gaps and spaces to work in are so small and tight, it was really not a nice job.
HOWEVER! I do recommend you check your plugs if they are due for a change or were "supposedly" changed a service or more back.
Mine were "so called changed" 5 000km's back, I HIGHLY doubt it, the white of the pugs were yellow, my idling was rough, throttle response not that great, AND THE WRONG PLUGS WERE IN!!!
This is one main reason I like to service my bikes myself, then you know things are done, replaced, cleaned or inspected.
I suspect, dealers or outside mechanics say they change them, but due to it being such a crappy job, they dont do it but still charge you for it.
I had a ticking/pinging noise before I changed my plugs and the idling was quite rough.
Since the new plugs and cleaned air filter (oil I did 1000km's back) my idling is smooth, throttle response GREAT, ticking noise gone and overall performance fantastic and smooth!
I could not get hold of the NGK CR10EK, but got the NGK CR9EK instead.
Good luck to anyone tackling this, and remember, it is possible to DIY it and its not complicated, its just a crappy job as the spaces and gaps to work in are so small.
If you do have a torque wrench, I torqued plugs to 13NM (found on a online manual).
Procedure:
Remove the tank (you can just pivot it up, but I recommend taking the whole tank off, more space then)
Remove the top side panels (Small ones, not the fairings)
Remove the air filter and induction pipes
Remove the plastic cover, covering the head
Remove the coils (mark them if you are unsure, I made a 1,2,3,4 on top of each just to be safe)
Remove your old spark plugs
Install your new plugs (Torque 13NM)
Now do rest in reverse and put it all back together.
I have a 2004 Yamaha R6 with 53 000km's on now.
It is a horrible job!!!
I changed mine yesterday, I started off by myself, removed the tank, airfilter etc, got the plugs out installed the new ones, but to be honest, I had to call my wife into the garage and ask her to help when putting everything back together, it is possible to do it by yourself (1 person) but Id strongly recommend you get an extra hand in to assist. I am quite hands on and do most things myself, but this one got to me, maybe the older you get, the more you realize, you getting to old for struggle and rather get some help in
I started making a "HOW TO" but it got so loooong, I decided to switch my camera off and stop taking photos.
The gaps and spaces to work in are so small and tight, it was really not a nice job.
HOWEVER! I do recommend you check your plugs if they are due for a change or were "supposedly" changed a service or more back.
Mine were "so called changed" 5 000km's back, I HIGHLY doubt it, the white of the pugs were yellow, my idling was rough, throttle response not that great, AND THE WRONG PLUGS WERE IN!!!
This is one main reason I like to service my bikes myself, then you know things are done, replaced, cleaned or inspected.
I suspect, dealers or outside mechanics say they change them, but due to it being such a crappy job, they dont do it but still charge you for it.
I had a ticking/pinging noise before I changed my plugs and the idling was quite rough.
Since the new plugs and cleaned air filter (oil I did 1000km's back) my idling is smooth, throttle response GREAT, ticking noise gone and overall performance fantastic and smooth!
I could not get hold of the NGK CR10EK, but got the NGK CR9EK instead.
Good luck to anyone tackling this, and remember, it is possible to DIY it and its not complicated, its just a crappy job as the spaces and gaps to work in are so small.
If you do have a torque wrench, I torqued plugs to 13NM (found on a online manual).
Procedure:
Remove the tank (you can just pivot it up, but I recommend taking the whole tank off, more space then)
Remove the top side panels (Small ones, not the fairings)
Remove the air filter and induction pipes
Remove the plastic cover, covering the head
Remove the coils (mark them if you are unsure, I made a 1,2,3,4 on top of each just to be safe)
Remove your old spark plugs
Install your new plugs (Torque 13NM)
Now do rest in reverse and put it all back together.
