So... Like... Front Brake Or Rear Brake?

On my big bike lessons (yes, you generally do a course here to build up to the handful of DSA Tests), the Instructors ALWAYS said to use BOTH front and back, ROAD riding. Roughly 50 / 50.
Depending on if it was wet or dry, the above proportions would change. Plus the size of bike made no difference (to the above guidance).

Also, if just crawling, in heavy traffic, junctions, traffic lights etc, only to use the rear brake, for smooth(er) control.
Wet weather i hardly use my front brake anymore.
 
Wet weather i hardly use my front brake anymore.

You are right ;) plus that comes with experience (hopefully not "mistakes") / riding in various weather conditions.

Over here, the Tester is LOOKING to see you use both brakes while negotiating roads on your 'big bike' Practical Test (Module 2). Module 1 Test is the same, (slow control) emergency stop, they want to see both brakes being applied (or at least have your foot over the rear brake to make it look like its being applied) ;) ...

After the test with a pass, and jumping on your own bike, you would probably not do so much of the "theory" they teach you in these lessons. Alot is just what the Testers will be looking for. Plus also good "techniques" to equip you for your motorcycling career.

For example, after briefly stopping in traffic, before pulling off, WHO looks over BOTH shoulders, then also both mirrors... before rolling away? If you forget to do this in the Test, you'd get marked down for "lack of observation". Plus you are supposed to do it at EVERY stop, before riding off.
 
You are right ;) plus that comes with experience (hopefully not "mistakes") / riding in various weather conditions.

Over here, the Tester is LOOKING to see you use both brakes while negotiating roads on your 'big bike' Practical Test (Module 2). Module 1 Test is the same, (slow control) emergency stop, they want to see both brakes being applied (or at least have your foot over the rear brake to make it look like its being applied) ;) ...

After the test with a pass, and jumping on your own bike, you would probably not do so much of the "theory" they teach you in these lessons. Alot is just what the Testers will be looking for. Plus also good "techniques" to equip you for your motorcycling career.

For example, after briefly stopping in traffic, before pulling off, WHO looks over BOTH shoulders, then also both mirrors... before rolling away? If you forget to do this in the Test, you'd get marked down for "lack of observation". Plus you are supposed to do it at EVERY stop.
I hear ya, if you do the theory in real life, you'd basically be so occupied observing that you'd not have time to drive the vehichle :D
 
I hear ya, if you do the theory in real life, you'd basically be so occupied observing that you'd not have time to drive the vehichle :D

Cha, that's pretty much it :D .

OBSERVATIONS (Lifesavers - glances over the shoulder) plus mirror checks, are probably the most important actions, on a Bike, whenever changing course, speed, direction etc. Being aware of your surroundings, other vehicles, obstacles in the road etc. Aware of where the next danger might come from! :mad:

The number of times now I've been cut up by cars, pulling out of junctions, riding across my path... expect the unexpected!
But I half expect the c*n*s to do it, so Im prepared and covering the brake(s). Escape route! :D
 
Cha, that's pretty much it :D .

OBSERVATIONS (Lifesavers - glances over the shoulder) plus mirror checks, are probably the most important actions, on a Bike, whenever changing course, speed, direction etc. Being aware of your surroundings, other vehicles, obstacles in the road etc. Aware of where the next danger might come from! :mad:

The number of times now I've been cut up by cars, pulling out of junctions, riding across my path... expect the unexpected!
yeah... yesterday (and this is pretty common) I had two cars overtaking me at the same time, one on the left side, one on the right. Mind you it was a 2 lane street in the downtown with half a lane on the left for parking. These assholes are just trying to shove themselves into every little spot they can..... >_<
 
Then you need to dominate your lane position. Keep people who want to pass on one side.
thing is there's no way you can do that, people just shove themselves into any empty space they see... UGH >_< So pretty much, 360° awareness is your friend
 
Can't imagine ever braking in a corner like some have posted as i would take it as not setting up the corner properly and not using the vanishing points properly either. It unsettles the bike.

Like the thread said if your on dirt then using the front brake with poor grip could be a problem.
Front brake on road in dry as it holds all of the bike weight at any sort of speed over 15 kph. Generally don't use the brakes much to be honest only to flash a brake light if a car is close into a corner etc. In wet gentle front brake squeeze at start of braking with back brake too.
Car parks and traffic very low speed back brake only to enable manoeuvre and stops forks dipping.


Here goes another thread. What do you guys mainly use for braking? Specify what you do, what bike or cc you riding and what speeds you are talking about.

My case:

I mainly use front brake and tend to stay away from rear brakes. Last time I used both, I ended up locking up the rear, and I was on a bumpy slope. Ended up on the ground.

I now tend to not use the rear brake at all unless I'm at VERY low speeds (think around 3-5mph). My main issue with it is that yes it does help to slow down real well but if it's a panic
Here goes another thread. What do you guys mainly use for braking? Specify what you do, what bike or cc you riding and what speeds you are talking about.

My case:

I mainly use front brake and tend to stay away from rear brakes. Last time I used both, I ended up locking up the rear, and I was on a bumpy slope. Ended up on the ground.

I now tend to not use the rear brake at all unless I'm at VERY low speeds (think around 3-5mph). My main issue with it is that yes it does help to slow down real well but if it's a panic brake then you're much better of braking with two fingers on the front brake (this way you don't grab a tense fistful) and you don't have the big chance of locking up your rear tire because of mashing on the breaks.


I'm riding a 250cc, usually around 45mph or less (I live in the downtown, ride in the downtown)
 
Can't imagine ever braking in a corner like some have posted as i would take it as not setting up the corner properly and not using the vanishing points properly either. It unsettles the bike.

Like the thread said if your on dirt then using the front brake with poor grip could be a problem.
Front brake on road in dry as it holds all of the bike weight at any sort of speed over 15 kph. Generally don't use the brakes much to be honest only to flash a brake light if a car is close into a corner etc. In wet gentle front brake squeeze at start of braking with back brake too.
Car parks and traffic very low speed back brake only to enable manoeuvre and stops forks dipping.
Do you live in a rural area?i often have to brake during corners at an intersection because a car in front of me brakes for whatever reason or slows down.
 
Do you live in a rural area?i often have to brake during corners at an intersection because a car in front of me brakes for whatever reason or slows down.
My mate "comfort brakes" too when he corners most times. He is learning to let go of the habit. Agreed it's not a hard rule, but more often than not I don't brake cornering, and my biking takes in the M25 so not very rural.
 
If you use front brake mid-corner then the bike will stand up and run straight on until you release the brake. Rear braking during a corner helps to settle the rear of the bike if the road is uneven.
 
If you use front brake mid-corner then the bike will stand up and run straight on until you release the brake. Rear braking during a corner helps to settle the rear of the bike if the road is uneven.
rear braking also tightens the turn I find
 
Then you need to dominate your lane position. Keep people who want to pass on one side.

This is also important. In letting people ride all around you (both sides), you are putting yourself into danger.
You say it was a 2 lane road, so for cars to be able to overtake on both sides, you must have been riding pretty much down the middle of the road? :D

Stay more central in your lane, then the cars only have 1 side to overtake. If you don't dominate your position, you'll end up on the receiving end of cars doing all sorts of dodgy overtakes, to get around you = danger. Dominating your lane also makes you more visible!
 
This is also important. In letting people ride all around you (both sides), you are putting yourself into danger.
You say it was a 2 lane road, so for cars to be able to overtake on both sides, you must have been riding pretty much down the middle of the road? :D

Stay more central in your lane, then the cars only have 1 side to overtake. If you don't dominate your position, you'll end up on the receiving end of cars doing all sorts of dodgy overtakes, to get around you = danger. Dominating your lane also makes you more visible!
Agreed it might have been my mistake too. 96: just that I guess you need to ride extra offensive and make sure you're aware of your surroundings when it comes to riding in this city. Oh well you love to learn eh?
 
Mostly front, rear for slow speed. Preferably zero brake in corners, braking should be done before you enter, however if necessary, modulating the front is what I do. In this situation below, I didn't touch the rear brake, only a towards the end when the bike was all upright and I didn't want to lock the front on the sandy area.

 
Mostly front, rear for slow speed. Preferably zero brake in corners, braking should be done before you enter, however if necessary, modulating the front is what I do. In this situation below, I didn't touch the rear brake, only a towards the end when the bike was all upright and I didn't want to lock the front on the sandy area.

that was a close call! I hate that feeling of locked tires and realization of 'I'm Fucked'... Happened to me 2 months ago... not fun
 
Here goes another thread. What do you guys mainly use for braking? Specify what you do, what bike or cc you riding and what speeds you are talking about.

My case:

I mainly use front brake and tend to stay away from rear brakes. Last time I used both, I ended up locking up the rear, and I was on a bumpy slope. Ended up on the ground.

I now tend to not use the rear brake at all unless I'm at VERY low speeds (think around 3-5mph). My main issue with it is that yes it does help to slow down real well but if it's a panic brake then you're much better of braking with two fingers on the front brake (this way you don't grab a tense fistful) and you don't have the big chance of locking up your rear tire because of mashing on the breaks.


I'm riding a 250cc, usually around 45mph or less (I live in the downtown, ride in the downtown)

The majority of braking force is available through the front brakes. The percentage is roughly 70 for the front and 30 for the back. There are a few videos out there that demonstrate the difference between using the rear, front, or both. The most effective braking occurs when the front and rear are applied together. A progressive or stepped braking method is best. This can be found by googling "progressive braking motorcycle"

That said, the types of brakes on your bike can affect how you should brake. On my Honda, I have a combined brake system (CBS). This means that my rear brake lever applies pressure to not only the rear drum, but also one of the Pistons in the front caliper. Since this applies gentler force to the front brake, I use this as my first step of braking, to slow the bike prior to cornering, or to slow in anticipation of something I see ahead that might cause me to need to move to the next level. The front lever activates the remaining two Pistons on the front caliper. A friend of mine jokingly called it my "oh sh@t" lever, which is apt. This second stage of braking is a gentle application of the front brake lever with a harder application of the CBS lever. This provides more braking force, but is still for the purpose of slowing the vehicle, not stopping it.

The third step progresses the pressure on both brakes to the point that the bike will decelerate more rapidly, and can stop the bike if you are slowing quickly enough.

The fourth step is the full application of the brakes with the intent of coming to a complete stop. Care should be taken to anticipate this as much as possible to help avoid locking the brakes. Personally, I feather or pump the brakes to help avoid lockup.

Perhaps the most important thing is to be aware of what is going on around you so you don't end up in a panic braking situation. Additionally, don't underestimate the power of engine braking. Using engine braking with the wheel brakes decreases the chances of wheel lockup.

Don't Think I missed anything.
 
^ Great Post! Can engine braking generate detrimental wear and tear on the engine?
I know it's used extensively, both on bikes plus in cars.
 

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