Plasti-dip

BigGreek

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What's everyone's thought on plasti-dip, been thinking about dipping my bike. Any suggestion? Painting is expensive and extremely time consuming. Just looking to change my bikes look. Any feedback is appreciated!
 
you can get it professionally done. some people can even add a clear coat. it will look allot better done by a professional.
 
You can check out my bike in the photo section. Easy to plasti dip. turned out great. just disappointed how easy it comes off in some areas. especially those that you rub against a lot. still....a huge advocate of plasti dip. cheap and easy to see how your bike will look in a different color or design. Im going to pull all my plasti dip off and paint now that i want it permanent
 
You can check out my bike in the photo section. Easy to plasti dip. turned out great. just disappointed how easy it comes off in some areas. especially those that you rub against a lot. still....a huge advocate of plasti dip. cheap and easy to see how your bike will look in a different color or design. Im going to pull all my plasti dip off and paint now that i want it permanent
the professional stuff doesn't come off like that. they were advancing what they can do with it very fast I'm sure its better then what I've seen. its been 3 years sense i went to the car meet the guy had at his shop that does it.
 
good to know. may go get that priced out then. Love the look of matte black plasti dip with my white bike. the thought of redoing all of it makes my head hurt
 
good to know. may go get that priced out then. Love the look of matte black plasti dip with my white bike. the thought of redoing all of it makes my head hurt
Real paint makes my head hurt i don't like sanding. Im rebuilding my friends 76 kz900 old drag bike. I'm painting his engine and sanding between every single fin. its all worth it in the end when it looks nice.
 
I've not had luck with the rattle can versions, but have a friend that's used it on the RX-7 with great results. He gets colors direct from manufacturer and mixes for a proper sprayer like paint. Basically the Pro version.
 
I've done it a few times, you need to do it properly otherwise it is rough and rubs off easy, comes off really hard! The main thing is to layer it on thick so the first payer you put on needs to be so thick that you can't see your paint but not so thick that it's running. and after that you're just adding layers so it comes off easily.

Here's a link to my most recent plastidip (went from Black paint to white base coat then blue top coat) https://motovlog.com/threads/i-cant-help-myself-plastidipping-again.13016/

If you want to see what my bike looks like without PlastiDip or how it looked the first time I plastidipped it It's put them here https://motovlog.com/threads/my-adventures-with-my-cbr500r.13240/
[SPOLIER 12 is the other plastidip I done] I also have a video of doing the first plastidip on my channel. I can link if you want I don't want to spam links :P
 
I've not had luck with the rattle can versions, but have a friend that's used it on the RX-7 with great results. He gets colors direct from manufacturer and mixes for a proper sprayer like paint. Basically the Pro version.
thats the stuff I'm talking about. i dint know anyone could order it. a guy out here has a shop and all he does is paint cars with it. he developed a clear coat for it and it makes it look crazy. nothing like the rattle can stuff.
 
Dipyourcar.com has a lot of professional grade stuff I believe. That's where I was looking at getting stuff to do my car
 
Plasti-Dip works better on cars because unlike bikes the driver doesn't rub up against the parts. If you are thinking of something temporary it would be fine, for permanent it's better to get a full job paint job.
 
I've done a number of cars and some bikes-- it works well for paint protection on track days and the like, but not so great for a long term application, especially on a bike where there are contact points (e.g on the tank). Also, fuel eats, discolors and generally makes plastidip unhappy, so again it doesn't work so well on fuel tanks.

It's not really that horribly expensive to paint a set of fairings and a tank professionally, especially if you do most of the prep yourself. Heck, it's not that hard to do it yourself with a relatively modest investment in equipment and some practice.
 
How much estimate would it be to have my fairings painted professionally?

Depends on many things-- how large they are, the material, what kind of paint you want, if you want stickers under the clear, etc, etc.

As a general guide, a typical set of fairings and tank with minimal prep should run around $600-900 for a decent job. If you're wanting exotic paints, if there's lots of prep work, etc, that all adds up.

You can save yourself a pile of cash by fully disassembling everything yourself, and if you're comfortable with it, doing the majority of the prep (remove all graphics, sand everything with 400->600->800 grit). Prep is generally the majority of cost in any paint job as it takes the most labor to do.
 
Honestly my main concern was the tank area. Being that my thighs rest on the tank, and sometimes a little gas driplets. Also, I've heard if you hit your fairing with 5-6 coats of plasti-dip and allow 2 days of cure time it should be durable enough to deal with the rubbing but I haven't seen any real feedback about that yet. Just don't want to go ahead with it until I'm sure it wont be a waste of money. Wanted to dip to change the appearance my R6 since I've had it for a while now, and wanted to change it up.
 
when your sanding remember if you sand it smooth as glass your paint will be smooth as glass. Also try not to sand with your hand they make a foam block with some cousin so your fingers won't leave low spots.
 
Honestly my main concern was the tank area. Being that my thighs rest on the tank, and sometimes a little gas driplets. Also, I've heard if you hit your fairing with 5-6 coats of plasti-dip and allow 2 days of cure time it should be durable enough to deal with the rubbing but I haven't seen any real feedback about that yet. Just don't want to go ahead with it until I'm sure it wont be a waste of money. Wanted to dip to change the appearance my R6 since I've had it for a while now, and wanted to change it up.

It isn't anywhere near durable enough to put up with constant abrasion as is the case on a tank. Even if you use the primer (which makes it hell to remove), it will come off in short order in that area. ANY gas or strong solvent will also immediately melt and discolor the dip.

Like I said, it works pretty well on fairings and low-wear areas-- but anything in contact with your body, forget it.
 
I have found the key with the stuff is more is better. Lots of coats work better, are more durable, and are easier to remove later than thin coats.
 
Plastidip is not bad, but Id rather go the wrapping route if I were you, been thinking about it myself too, works out cheaper if you diy it as well, youtube a couple of vids and you will see, it doesnt seem to tough a job to tackle.
 

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