I've been wrenching on bikes and building engines for 20+ years. My method of braking in new engines is thus:
For new engines delivered from the factory (e.g. have been run in slightly at factory)
- Start up, warm fluids with throttle blips from 1-2k rpm for a few minutes.
- Ride (or dyno) immediately with increasing load/rpm. I do ten or so pulls from ~2k revs to ~5k at half throttle, ten more at 3k-7k at 3/4 throttle, final ten at ~5k to redline at WOT, allowing for a brief cool down between series runs. Obviously you want to do this somewhere safe where you can do a WOT pull without spamming youself or going to jail. Dyno is best if you have access to one.
- Immediately dump oil as soon as runs are complete, refill and ride normally. It's as broken in as it's getting. Check oil levels every ride for ~500 miles.
For new freshly rebuilt engines that have not been started:
- Fill with quality break-in oil. I use Amsoil 30w break-in, which is the best I've used.
- Start and hold at ~2,500 rpm for ~5-10 min until coolant and oil is up to temp (bikes vary quite a lot as to how long this takes. 160+F coolant and 140+F oil is good to go)
- Shut down and check level, for leaks, etc. If nothing is suspect, break in as above.
The "go gentle with it for x miles" owners manual stuff is largely warranty mitigation nonsense. If something is going to blow up, it's going to blow up pretty quick, and going easy on it isn't really going to change that outcome. If not, braking it in as above will yield a much better ring seal and hence more power and less oil consumption than babying it. This is true for pretty much any 4-stroke piston-based engine. (2-smokes are a bit different as you have to pay more attention to cylinder temp)
Note that after ~20 miles of riding, it's as broken in as it's getting. The x thousand miles of x type of riding/driving is nonsense.