Seeking Mechanical Knowledge (advice Is Appreciated)

Mosin636

Mosin636

Mosin636
So i am currently in the process of acquiring another bike while possibly choosing to return this to service and insight would be great I will list symptoms below

BIKE: 2003 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 - 30K miles

Engine is consuming oil (possibly worn out oil control rings)

Occasional failure to find neutral when stopped (skipping to second) this happened last month or so i beleive when the oil level began to get low from engine consumption.

Occasional engine knocking (this happened from purchase just unfortunately not on test ride bike its not always just sometimes.

Engine oil light came on due to lack of oil saw oil leaking from some various areas could not identify cause.

Put in 4 new qts to the 3.6qt system and oil indicating levels were still low

a few days after this started having serious clutch problems (not going into neutral and lurching of the bike when going into gear)

I tried adjusting the cable and cannot find a way to fully disengage the clutch in its max range on ether side.

At this point the only way to move the bike freely is putting it in Neutral without starting.

Unfortunately this bike has some deeper issues that were masked from me a purchase. But does it sound like there is a way i can get some more miles out of it. Is my clutch shot or do I just not have the ability to adjust it properly. should i take it to a mechanic and pay him to tell me im fucked. Honestly I would really appreciate those without some experience to leave this up to others.

New bike soon im addicted now.

Im new to this world and have no one with experience so go easy if i did something obviously stupid just trying to not totally lose my investment.
 
Any ideas if the bike has been looked after previously?

The finding neutral problem and clutch not disengaging may be down to a stretched clutch cable, but if it's anything like my Honda, the correct oil level affects the ease of which it will find neutral. Some bikes do need 1st to 2nd then down for neutral anyway. But you need to fix the clutch operation first.

If you have seen an oil leak find that before stripping the engine. Get as many things off as you can to get a good look at the engine and clean it with a degreaser. Check the oil level and run the bike then you can trace the oil back. If there's oil at the top of the engine it could be rocker cover gasket. These are cheap and easy to fix, and if you do replace, a small bead of gasket sealant will help. Allow to set for 24h. Also use a torque wrench to prevent over tightening. Just because oil is coming from multiple places, doesn't mean there are multiple leaks. Also check the oil drain plug and oil filter are firmly on.

Whilst the rocker cover is off, look up the valve clearance check procedure. Doesn't take long once you're there anyway.

Knocking is a tough one, top noise? Bottom noise? Banging, clicking? Rumbling? Can you record it on a cam? For ID purposes you're welcome to post a short clip in this thread.
 
thanks for your help i will get to working on the bike as soon as possible as far as the knocking goes im not sure how to describe it. i will look through some videos and see if i can find it. it happens in low gears usually 1st or 2nd and happens when i accelerating from a very slow or stopped position and and just sounds or feels like a clicking or something inside the engine for a second before it stops. cant tell any performance issues on the engine while this occurs
 
I am currently uploading a video to youtube
Lurch said:
I'd fix the clutch, valve clearances and the leak, take it from there.
Click to expand...

About to upload a video to youtube and will link it when its done. I inspected my clutch cable and saw no signs of fraying or stretching. Perhaps the video will help
 
Do you have free play in the lever before it moves the clutch actuator and does the cable move the actuator freely?
 
Oil level can effect gear changes and clutch.

However from what you have said with it consuming and leaking oil, having been run with so little oil that the oil pressure light has come on and knocking sounds from the engine, I'd say this would most likely turn into a money pit unfortunately.

But if you're willing to put some time into it without spending loads of money. Check the things mentioned above by Lurch.
 
Lurch said:
Bluepixel has better credentials for fixing bikes than me by the way :)
Click to expand...

I doubt that. What you mentioned is a good place for him to start if he wants to try and get it back up and running a little better.

Running it with low oil could have damaged internal bearings, piston rings etc which would account for the knocking and oil consumption. Both are not cheap fixes and most people just replace the whole engine. It all depends how much time, money and patience you have. I'm basing this all off of what you have said and I am not a mechanic of any form so take whatever I say with a pinch of salt so to speak.

If it was my bike I'd either do the little things Lurch mentioned and run it till it dies or sell it as is for cheap and focus on enjoying your new bike :)
 
The knocking is probably valve clearance issues, going by you saying it was kind of a clicking sound and doesn't happen all the time. Valves could be off or just really built up with gunk. Could be timing gear, too. Getting a new clutch cable and squaring away the oil leak will probably solve some problems, too. If that fails to solve the issue, you may have to replace the clutch, but I always say find the cheap solutions first. Don't know about the oil light. Is it coming on when you start it and going off, or coming on and staying on? I wouldn't overfill the oil, though. That can cause problems, too! The problem of skipping neutral could be clutch related or it could be the type of oil being used. If you haven't already, switch back to the type and brand of oil recommended by the manufacturer. Some bikes don't like full synthetic oil or car oil and it will cause slippage with wet clutch bikes.
 
BluePixel said:
I doubt that. What you mentioned is a good place for him to start if he wants to try and get it back up and running a little better.

Running it with low oil could have damaged internal bearings, piston rings etc which would account for the knocking and oil consumption. Both are not cheap fixes and most people just replace the whole engine. It all depends how much time, money and patience you have. I'm basing this all off of what you have said and I am not a mechanic of any form so take whatever I say with a pinch of salt so to speak.

If it was my bike I'd either do the little things Lurch mentioned and run it till it dies or sell it as is for cheap and focus on enjoying your new bike :)
Click to expand...
Lurch said:
Bluepixel has better credentials for fixing bikes than me by the way :)
Click to expand...


Here is the youtube video i passed out last night before posting in here.

The engine knocking has always been an occasional problem (here and there) since purchase not just recently with low oil level.
Thanks for all the help
 
Clint Love said:
The knocking is probably valve clearance issues, going by you saying it was kind of a clicking sound and doesn't happen all the time. Valves could be off or just really built up with gunk. Could be timing gear, too. Getting a new clutch cable and squaring away the oil leak will probably solve some problems, too. If that fails to solve the issue, you may have to replace the clutch, but I always say find the cheap solutions first. Don't know about the oil light. Is it coming on when you start it and going off, or coming on and staying on? I wouldn't overfill the oil, though. That can cause problems, too! The problem of skipping neutral could be clutch related or it could be the type of oil being used. If you haven't already, switch back to the type and brand of oil recommended by the manufacturer. Some bikes don't like full synthetic oil or car oil and it will cause slippage with wet clutch bikes.
Click to expand...

The oil light only stayed on One time then i added oil to the system ran the engine for a few minutes and it came off. I have put more oil in that the recommended but oil levels still seem low
 
Mosin636 said:
Here is the youtube video i passed out last night before posting in here.

The engine knocking has always been an occasional problem (here and there) since purchase not just recently with low oil level.
Thanks for all the help
Click to expand...

The bottle / container on the left side is for your coolant. The oil level should always be between the Maximum and Minimum lines on the window with the bike completely upright. Make sure that you leave the bike for 5 - 10 mins before checking the oil level if it's been running to allow the oil to settle back into the sump otherwise you'll get a false reading of low oil.

If you overfill the oil it will also cause dodgy gear changes and clutch problems.

First thing I would do is double check the oil level is correct on flat ground with the bike stood upright off the stand. Then check the air filter under the fuel tank to see if it's covered in engine oil which could indicate it has been overfilled at some point.

For the clutch, follow this little guide on how to adjust it correctly and see if it helps.

(Taken from ZX6R forum post) - http://www.zx-6r.net/forums/kawasak...ssion/32880-04-636-clutch-adjustment-how.html

"I am not at home so this is just off the top of my head, I think you want to have the adjuster at the case, down where the clutch is, have that one near half way mark, so there is about the same amount of adjustment on both sides or slightly tighter, which is to pull the cable a little bit more, then you should be able to adjust the top at the clutch lever and get the right amount of freeplay, I think its like 2-3 mm of opening from the clutch lever to the stop, but the main thing is to make sure it engages all the way and disengages all the way, so try going in and out of gear a few times to make sure its good, your owners manual should say how to do it also, if you don't have one, I strongly recommend spending the money to get one"
 
I'd look at that spring at the business end of the clutch cable, check it's not damaged. I do think you should try a whole new cable, and get a genuine one, or an aftermarket one from a reputable supplier so you know it is correct. They're not expensive. Find a proper guide on changing it, and you should have some free play at the lever end as well, 2-3mm (1/8").

The bottle on the left is coolant as BP says. There's a max/min on it and should probably be checked with the bike upright and on level ground with the engine cold. Do check the manual though for the official procedures. Also check what coolant type you need, my Honda needs silicate free coolant, and there are certain types of coolant you shouldn't mix too. If you're having the bike apart to find leaks, perhaps look up how to change the coolant on it. Shouldn't need more than a gallon/4qts (assuming your qts are the same as here :), I know you have small gallons!)

Again, while apart, consider things like spark plugs that may be hard to get to normally. Check the air filter is clean too whilst you're there. Save you taking the bike apart again for a service!
 
Mosin636 said:
The oil light only stayed on One time then i added oil to the system ran the engine for a few minutes and it came off. I have put more oil in that the recommended but oil levels still seem low
Click to expand...

The oil light going on right at start and then going off again should be normal. I usually go by the sight glass on my bike to determine oil level, rather than any certain amount. I will run the bike until it's warmed up a bit and then shut it off and let it sit for about 5 minutes and then check it. If it's right in the middle on the sight glass I call it good.
 
Thanks for everyones help at this point i feel the clutch issue is beyond my mechanical ability if not just completely screwed. I will try and get a mechanic to check it out and see if he can get it to function properly.
 
Clutch cable should be within your capability. Clutch basket will be more involved, but it's probably not that if it's not slipping.
 
Yea i think its more than just a cable as to the full extent of all possible adjustments that clutch wont allow me to roll the bike in first gear even after correct oil level was attained
 
Thanks for the help everyone but im just selling this bike as a parts/project bike in the works of getting an R1 go to my channel if you would like to see the test ride - Mosin636
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Top Posters Past 30 days

Winners Video

Website Supported by Ipswich SEO

Latest posts

Back
Top