breakng in a motorcycle engine

[dandoolittle]

So lets talk about breaking in a motorcycle engine


I'm pretty convinced that as long as you don't red line for ages (full throttle) but ride like you would any older bike, then that's more than enough right?

No need to break it in by going 40mph for the next 400 miles?

I've watched a ton of vids, none really have 100% facts

I'm picking up my CBR on Saturday! I know the first 50 miles I'll be breaking in the tyres anyway but..

Also, manufacturers are not going to tell you to rag the shit out of your bike are they?

 

[O8ride]

My dealer told me not to go above 50mph (on a Piaggio Fly 125 scooter) or past 80% of the throttle for the first 1000km in order to break it in properly. Someone else on here or youtube - Ryan25xd in Harrogate - who picked up his new Yamaha WR125X was only told to break it in for 50 or 100 miles. Different engines, or just "experts" making it all up as they go along?

Interestingly, I was not told anything about the tyres, and only found out through here or youtube that they had a covering that needed to be worn off (much later on, mind).

 

[dandoolittle]

That's the trouble with opinions, everyone has one.

Jake the snake reckons it's best to hard break, along with others - No actual facts though



I don't trust dealers 100%

 

[monkeystrada]

Have you downloaded the owners manual to see what Honda say? The manufacturers recommended break-in for my Multistrada was ~5500rpm for the first 1000km, then ~7000pm until 2500km.

I would follow the manufacturers recommended procedure, it may be a bit tedious but at least then they can't have any quibbles if something goes wrong under the warranty as you were doing what they recommend.

The main thing that has always been recommended to me is to vary the revs as much as you can, i.e don't spend too long sitting at the same revs. Vary the roads/speeds/revs as much as you can (i.e some around town stuff, some A roads, some dual-carriageways etc). And definitely don't lug/labour the engine.

Modern engines are pretty robust, especially the Jap ones, so I doubt any kind of riding would harm it really, unless you ride everywhere at 15k. But probably better to be safe than sorry with your new baby!

 

[Nerb]

You have to ask what is happening when you are breaking it in. My understanding is that everything is so well built these days, components such as cams and gears need no break in period but the piston rings do. They need to be seated against the bore to form a perfect seal. The best way for this to happen is for the highest possible pressure in the bore to force the rings as hard as possible against the bore. I read that 80% or something of this wear happens in the first 20 miles. So full throttle or zero throttle for the first 20 miles.

If seen no other reasonable explanation of any other break in procedure.

 

[monkeystrada]

Also worth noting that the dealer's (if they are conscientious) will probably have taken the bike for a 20-30 minute test ride after it has arrived and been assembled/commissioned* anyway, so the very first running of the engine will probably have already taken place before you even get your hands on it. Which may make the whole thing a moot point.


*unless the bike is from dealer stock of course

 

[Cagerontwowheels]

Nowadays, there is hardly any "breaking in". Engines are broken in at the factory.
The manufacturer's recommendations (usually, avoid full throttle for the first 1000 miles) has more to do with saving yourself from a small manufacturing defect destroying your engine.
The engines themselves should have no problems. Thing is, the stuff around it can. Loose oil/fuel lines, a loose nut on the carter (that bottom nut that you loosen to let the engine oil out), etc. Can have devastating consequences, and the bike hasnt been tested.
Image what would happen to a brand new engine if you had a oil line slightly loose (or as it has happened to a friend, the engine head was too loose, so oil was leaking out from the top seal of the engine) and you were pushing 100%.
(or, as has happened to another friend, the radiator tubing was loose, leaking out coolant).


Plus, to help with any issue, or slight manufacting fault, the 1st oil is much thinner (thats why its changed after 1000kms). I suppose its a lot more fluid, and thus transmits heat less well, so you shouldt really overheat the engine too much. (meaning, dont over-rev it for too long).

Dont' worry too much about it. Just get to know her gently.


NOTE: These are not facts - I'm no expert. I just go with the idea that since _I_ am not an expert, I should trust the advice from the guys that have actually studied these things for half a decade or more, and actually have an idea on what is happening, and... you know... actually designed the bloody thing.

 

[Muppiej]

The break in period is one of the most important things for an engine...
Every single part has to "settle".
It has grow to each other. A new engine has little pieces of metal init while in the break in period.. The most important things are the cylinder and the piston.
The piston grows when its getting warm ( when the engine is rumning ). So does the rest of the engine, the cylinders have a bigger mass then the pistons (so it takes longer to grow). What I'm trying to point out here is that it is really really really important to warm up your engine. If you dont the piston grows and the cylinders dont grow as fast as the piston wich will end in the piston scraping against the wall of the cylinder. (it is proven that an unwarmed engine at huge amout of load will wear down 10 times faster then an cold engine) imagine that to your brand new engine.. This will eventualy lead to the so called blow by (space between piston and cylinder wall). I agree that 1000km and 1600km sound weird but what they mean is that the engine gets worn in smoothly, a lot of diffrent rpms, lotsa gear changing, diffrent amounts of throttle (50% max). After the 1600km don't just cranck it open, build it in steps. From 1600km to 2000km when 2000km is reached u did a full throtle. Not always a lot of load. The engineb(most important is the oil) will be warm after about 15 minutes of riding. This is just how I learned it and im convinnced this is the best way! I dont say im always right but it is my opninion!

 

[dandoolittle]

Spoke to my deal who simply said -

Ride it how I normally ride (he's ridden with me a few times)
First 30 miles should be be on an A road (Americans call them free-ways, I think)
Don't max out on red lines (Can't do that legally on UK roads anyway)
Ride 1-4 gear to the max and cut the throttle just as it hit the red - Engine braking

The only thing he did disagree with was changing the oil after 20miles. He said the first oil in the machine is a lot more slipper than normal oil. He was adamant that you don't need to change that until the first service

 

[Nerb]

The break in period is one of the most important things for an engine...
Every single part has to "settle".
It has grow to each other. A new engine has little pieces of metal init while in the break in period.. The most important things are the cylinder and the piston.
The piston grows when its getting warm ( when the engine is rumning ). So does the rest of the engine, the cylinders have a bigger mass then the pistons (so it takes longer to grow). What I'm trying to point out here is that it is really really really important to warm up your engine. If you dont the piston grows and the cylinders dont grow as fast as the piston wich will end in the piston scraping against the wall of the cylinder. (it is proven that an unwarmed engine at huge amout of load will wear down 10 times faster then an cold engine) imagine that to your brand new engine.. This will eventualy lead to the so called blow by (space between piston and cylinder wall). I agree that 1000km and 1600km sound weird but what they mean is that the engine gets worn in smoothly, a lot of diffrent rpms, lotsa gear changing, diffrent amounts of throttle (50% max). After the 1600km don't just cranck it open, build it in steps. From 1600km to 2000km when 2000km is reached u did a full throtle. Not always a lot of load. The engineb(most important is the oil) will be warm after about 15 minutes of riding. This is just how I learned it and im convinnced this is the best way! I dont say im always right but it is my opninion!

I think this is important for the life of the bike, not just the "run-in period".

The only thing he did disagree with was changing the oil after 20miles. He said the first oil in the machine is a lot more slipper than normal oil. He was adamant that you don't need to change that until the first service

2013 models dont use run-in oil anymore. Not around here anyway. Just stock oil. Manufacturers just say change it after 1000km.

 

[The Infamous Biker]

The best advice I'd say is to follow the owners handbook. I'm currently breaking in my new Aprilia Shiver and the manual says it take 1000km (about 650 miles) and I shouldn't expose it to long periods of high sustained revving. But even on the motorway at 75 mph it's only revving to 5000k in 6th gear, so I can pretty much ride as normal so long as I don't red line it whilst I'm going up the gears.

Good luck, and congrats on the new bike. What size you getting?

 

[Triple Demon]

Personally any new engine I think the first few miles (0-100) are the most important and you should be doing a lot of engine braking and run through the gears getting closer and closer to red line every couple of miles I did it with my new car and I'm sure its been done with my bike because it was a demo bike and no problems with either and I have about 25k miles on my car and almost 1.5k miles on my bike (bought with 500ish miles already) I've never had a problem with either new engines are just built really well today.

 

[phildobaggins]

Just need to seat the rings and change the oil after 3-500 miles. Keep the motor under a light load, no need to race the engine but a strong gradual acceleration will keep seat everything. After a few hundred miles I typically start beating on the motor as I normally would. I change the oil at like 500 then at 1000 and then at 3000 then normal intervals. If your motor doesn't eat oil at 5000 miles you probably broke it in just fine. I rolled off the lot on my brand new Concours 14 with my wife on the back seat with 0 miles. By the time the odometer read 1 mile I had the bike over 100 mph.

 

[TitoRide]

There's still some seating of the rings that needs to be done and little bits of metal removed as things settle in. It's the last part of size adjustment to be done and can only be done by the engine running. This initial break in will be done before you get it. They run it that long to make sure the timing is adjusted correctly, that temperatures maintain where they should, that valves are adjusted correctly, that something isn't going to explode or seize, etc.

Break in periods are shorter than they used to be due to the ability to machine things more precisely these days, but that last size adjustment still needs to be made. I don't know if they change the oil after that initial run. I always did the first change at 100 miles, but I'm in my own garage.
Truthfully, the break in you're doing is mostly to set the rings. There may be some metal still which is why they want you to change the oil in 600 miles or so (My '07 Honda recommended 600 miles for the first oil change). It's to get rid of the possible small pieces of metal which clog the filter before the normal amount of miles between oil changes.

So the rings may not be completely seated when you get it. The compression isn't at it's best yet which is why people see gas mileage figures rise after the first 500 miles or so. The engine starts working better since the rings seat.

Just be easy on it. Things are still settling. Compression leaks out and goes into other areas so taking it from the dealership and running it down the street at 15K rpm could make things unhappy. Most likely no matter what you do the engine will complete it's break in. Improperly breaking a motor in may shorten the life but who really knows? The engine has been nursed through it's most vulnerable point before you've gotten it. Remember though that other parts of the bike are breaking in as well. It's another reason to keep it controlled, especially for the first 1-200 miles.
With engines I've built, after the initial break in I vary the rpms, prevent lugging it, and keep the rpm from topping out and they run smooth, fast and without drinking oil. It's what has worked for me.

 

[MrFalloffalot]

WOW, lots of opinions, experiences, etc.
Now, my $1.73 worth.

In the 'Olden' days, the motors had more friction areas, thats the main difference with new, less friction means more revs, less need for lotsa torque, and motors need less warm-up AND RUNNING-IN. (less friction = longer-life+faster power delivery etc)

Old engines, the common was, drive as normal, no HARD accell from stop-start, 80klm for 5min then 100klm for 5min, etc (freeway).

At the 1000klm mark, 1st oil change, then at around 3k youd have the head Torqued-up and the Tappets done, with oil again. (1-3k ISH, is the ruff time the pistons will lose their 'sharp edge').
Nowadays, (cars) the gearboxes are SEALED boxes, thus no need for oil change/service, the head still needs tourquing and tappets, well that im not sure. Id say Err Ummmm?.
Main thing u gotta worry about is The Warranty, does it cover run-in period?. And when does the cam chain have to be done?.

Think youll be Fine. As mentioned by LOTSA ppl earlier, Modern mtrs are preety reliable and robust.

Just treat it as you would a new Bitch/Girlfreind, treat her right for the first few months to a year.
Then when u know shes not leaving, ABUSE her

Have fun with it though.
> : )